Cypress Restaurant Delivers Fresh Takes, Familiar Flavors In Severna Park

Situated on the Park Plaza corner previously occupied by Sullivan’s Cove, Severna Park’s newest eatery boasts a menu that offers something for everyone. After sampling several items from among Cypress Restaurant’s robust selection of apps, handhelds, salads and entrees, I’m inclined to think that’s an accurate claim.

My husband, Scott, and I decided to try Cypress for an early dinner on a Saturday evening, having read that reservations fill quickly on weekends. When we arrived at 4:30pm, the place was more than half full and we were seated at a high-top by the bar; by 5:30pm, the staff was only able to seat patrons who had reservations. Although the restaurant had been open less than two months, people had already discovered that it has much to offer.

Interior renovations have transformed the space – which includes a large bar, booth seating, tables and high-tops – with thoughtful design elements ranging from contemporary lighting to comfortable seating. The atmosphere felt both upscale yet casual, fitting for a work lunch, date night or birthday celebration.

While we appreciated the ambiance, we had come for the food, having perused the menu online. The appetizer offerings at Cypress range from jumbo wings to crispy Brussels sprouts to calamari – all things we enjoy – but we opted to kick off our dining experience with one of the trio of flatbreads. The Chesapeake flatbread ($18) was a light but satisfying starter. Thin crust, crisped at the edges, was covered in cheese and topped with crab meat, shrimp, chicken, tomatoes, basil oil and a light dash of crab seasoning.

A lifelong Marylander, Scott is more of a seafood enthusiast than I am, but we agreed the flatbread was a great choice, with just the right blend of land and sea and unusually tasty mozzarella.

Choosing our main courses proved to be a challenge, as there are many enticing options for appetites large and small. The “shobb” offers a fresh take on a healthy classic: in place of the traditional chicken on a cobb, this salad is topped with scallops, shrimp and lump crab. Served with fries, the handhelds ranged from a crab cake sandwich to mahi mahi tacos to a short rib sandwich, which was on my short list. The entrees list offered several seafood dishes, including jumbo stuffed shrimp and a rotating chef’s catch; braised short rib and a grilled pork chop for the carnivores among us; and a vegan option in the grilled portobello mushroom. All gluten-free and vegan options were clearly labeled.

Continuing our ongoing quest for the best shrimp and grits north of the coastal Carolinas – no local renditions have yet rivaled our favorite in Charleston – Scott opted to see how the dish stacked up at Cypress. Andouille sausage, tomatoes and white wine creole sauce were layered atop a bed of cheddar grits and five large shrimp. Even though the tails were left on the shrimp, Scott declared Cypress’ shrimp and grits ($26) to be his new local favorite.

Drawn to burgers with creative toppings, I opted for the Cypress signature burger ($18). Cooked perfectly to order, the first bite transported me immediately to a summer family cookout – the proper kind, with hand rolled fresh beef patties. But this was better, as the burgers of my childhood were not topped with thick-cut bacon, fried green tomato, white cheddar or roasted garlic aioli, nor were they served on onion poppy-seed buns.

Half of the burger was plenty for me; I had to save room for dessert. Presented with seven options, we landed on the salted caramel vanilla crunch cake ($8) and the flourless chocolate torte ($8), which was gluten free. Both were great choices: the cake was layered with flavor, moist and sweet – but not too sweet – and the torte was rich and dense.

Throughout our dining experience, our server was friendly and attentive, though it was clear, especially toward the end of our meal, that the staff was very busy and perhaps spread a little thin. Arriving early seemed to have been the right call, as even the bar was full before 5:30pm.

We left Cypress full and eager to return to sample more from its menu – and split another slice of the chocolate torte.

Cypress Restaurant is located at 522 Ritchie Highway, Suite L, in Severna Park. Explore the menu at www.eatatcypress.com.